svindulgence.com Blog

    Our Sailing adventures and other stuff…

    Browsing Posts published in February, 2011

    Tomorrow, we pack up the boat and start heading towards Antigua. We are taking an unusual route through Guadeloupe via the River Salle. We then make our way to Antigua on Thurs or Friday.

    The main sail has been repaired….unfortunately it is too windy to put it back on the boom. Last night we had wind gusts of 30+ knots (thats 40 MPH!). Fortunately no boats dragged, but it was a sleepless night with the wind roaring and the waves violently rocking the boat. I’m looking forward to the protected harbors of Antigua.

    Les Saintes

    Comments off

    Hey, we’re in the Saints,we sailed here from Dominica yesterday with some friends,came in about 12:00, in high winds, spent about 2 hours anchoring, then just as we were setlled we had to move again to a different place and spent 30 minutes re anchoring ,spent the night, then when I got up this morning we had to move again. 

    signed

    anonymous

    Since Aug 20th, 2010 we have been South going ZAX….yesterday we became North going ZAX (for those who dont know what a ZAX is, it is from a Dr. Seuss story). What kind of ZAX is the best? It is one going same direction as you. We are now beginning our slow journey back towards Maine.

    We had a great stay in Dominica and would loved to stay longer, but weather windows dictate our movement so we had to move. The Saintes are bit rolly and very windy, but we are getting the main sail repaired and need to wait until our next weather window early next week. The crew loves the Saintes….so everyone is happy.

    Yesterday we went to Carnival opening.  The only reason I agreed to go is beacause all these big events are one big advertisement and sometimes they give away free stuff! So, we kept asking around and we eventually ended up on some steps downtown. Fifteen minutes later, a dog walked up and lay down by the steps.  But, before you hear that story, you have to hear this story…

    We had just pulled into Dominica, and we had to go to customs.  Unfortunately, I had to come along.  After about 15 minutes, my sister said, “Mama, there’s a dog following us,”.  And sure enough, there was a little tan dog with big ears, which looked like it had puppies or was going to have puppies.   A few minutes later, we passed a bar with two dogs outside.  We all looked back, and sure enough, there was the dog.  The two dogs went over to sniff it, and we thought we’d lost it for sure.  But a minute later, who came into view, but the dog.  Thirty minutes later, when we walked into customs, the dog was right behind us.  When we went inside, it sat down on the steps to wait.  We saw our friends from Scott-free who we met on a river tour with our guide.  After we told them about he dog, they left, and the dog got up to follow them.  At the gate, the dog paused and looked back at us for a few seconds, before running after them. 

    Now, back to the present.  Right down to the Chinese-like markings on its collar, it was the same dog!  After a while, my dad decided to go get fried chicken, and he asked us if we wanted some.  While we were eating our chicken, four dogs came up and parked themselves by the first one.  Later, we heard some loud music and saw a truck inching its way toward us.  Then, when it was about twenty-five yards away, it stopped.  Thirty minutes later, some people in costumes with plastic strips glued all over and fright masks, started parading down the street.  After these people, who I have nick-named the evil chickens, had walked down the street a couple of times, my dad and I decided to go down and see what was the hold-up.  Nothing much was happening.  There were some people drinking beer and sitting around.

    When we came back, a lady had taken my spot and my dad asked, “Hey, do you know what the hold-up is?”  She said, “Oh, they’re just setting up for the parade.  It takes a while.”  And sure enough, thirty minutes later, the truck started moving again.  Let me tell you, it was loud!  If I didn’t have my ears plugged, I’d be deaf by sixteen!  I also know why Portland has an open container law.  People were drinking rum straight from the bottle and getting refills from people in the trucks. 

    Now, my dad had had enough of waiting, so he said it was time to go.  When we were walking back to the boat, a few trucks were giving away stuff.  I got a hot pink blackberry shopping bag and three pieces of candy, but I ate them.

    Today is day six in Portsmouth, Dominica, and we have been very busy.  Dominica is a true jungle island with active volcanoes, over 300 rivers, and rainforests.  Upon arriving, yachts are met with local guides known as “boat boys” who simply bust themselves to take care of you while you visit.  They arrange and guide all sorts of tours (Dominica is a big island – there are a lot of beautiful attractions), as well as getting your garbage and laundry taken care of.  On Saturday nights, they put together a “cruisers’ barbeque” on the beach, complete with a killer rum punch made with exotic fruit juices and locally made rum. 

    The gentleman who has been our guide here is named Martin.  He possesses a ridiculous amount of information about flora, fauna, herbal medicines, Dominican history and cooking.  As long as the kids hang around Martin, there’s no need for homeschooling.  We are trying some of the unfamiliar local produce (today I made a green papaya salsa – yum) and pretty much making meals of mangoes, papaya, bananas, cheese and bread.  To my delight, the weather is encouraging us to stay put here for at least another week, and John has been so busy, that he seems content to stay.  

    We hope we are here long enough to have the kids make some local friends.   The owner of one of the beach restaurants (Big Papa’s) has a ten year old son, whom Jasper met today on the beach, and Martin has a ten year old daughter, whom we hope Georgia will meet tonight at the barbeque.  

    We planned Dominica as our “turning point”, knowing that there are many islands further south that would be wonderful to visit, but not wanting to squeeze too much in.  We hope to revisit some of our favorite spots on the return trip, including Guadeloupe and St. Martin, delving further into what those islands are all about.

    We had boisterous passage from the Saintes to Dominica (20+ knots, 10+ foot seas with 6 foot chop on top). Unfortunately,we ripped out the reefing points (the points in the belly….not the leach), creating a huge tear in the mainsail that we’ll need to get repaired. Adding to our woes, Dominica is not really the place to get a sail repaired. Fortunately, we sailed jib and jigger and can do this back up the Leewards until we find a suitable place to get the sail repaired (a nice thing about a ketch rig).

    Tomorrow we check in and have planned a guided trip up the indian river. I am excited to be here, as this was on of the places I most wanted to visit. We’ll be here in Dominica for a couple of weeks and then slowly begin our trip Northward and eventually back to Maine by the end of June.

    Fort Napolean

    Comments off

    Right now we’re in Les Saints, a few small islands near Guadaloupe. One day, my father, the hiking maniac, decided that,  surprise, surprise, we all had to go on a hike to Fort Napolean. Well I’ve never seen a castle, but if I had, it would look like that. It had a draw bridge and everything! Archery slits, check, moat, check, cannons, check, dragons, check. Unfortunatly, the moat was dried up and the dragons were iguanas. But anyway, it was cool.

    Getting the hook set in Terre de Haut was difficult.  The harbor is quite crowded, there is a wide ferry channel, the holding is not particularly good (very hard sand and weeds) and the harbor is deep – it drops off quickly to about forty feet right off shore. 

    Upon our arrival, we spent a good hour circling the harbor and then attempting to squeeze into a “hole” between some boats close to shore in about 15 feet of water.  Too tight.  After the fifth or sixth attempt to get the anchor down there, we abandoned it for a spot in about 50 feet for the night.  We rolled pretty badly all night, so first thing in the morning, we were at it again, trying to find a good spot.  We then had another four or so tries before, after a final dive on the anchor, John declared us “all set”. 

    One thing we have learned is that most folks don’t dive on their anchors to make sure that the anchors are actually buried and not just hung up on something.  We watched two boats slowly drag through the harbor – their owners actually aboard and sitting obliviously in the cockpit – because their anchors had never set properly.  John always snorkels or dives on the anchor and it certainly makes us feel more secure. 

    Once the hook was down for good, the real fun began.  We are once again in a French port with all the great things that go with it.  Good food, beautiful boutiques, and the opportunity to  practice our French.  At this point in the trip, I could care less if I ever see another beach.   Hanging out in town, taking notice of the native architecture,  listening to the locals and enjoying good food are my thing. 

    We did a short hike to Fort St. Louis this morning and enjoyed beautiful views and photographed some iguanas.  Right now, John is “supping” (stand-up-paddle board) around the harbor, I’m writing, and the kids are listening to Selina Gomez.  We are heading back to town when the shops reopen at 4 pm for bread for dinner – John’s goat stew recipe. Something for everyone in Isles de Saintes.

    Guadeloupe

    Comments off

    Hey, we’re in Guadeloupe. This morning, my mom, brother and me went in at 9:00 am and had crepes for breakfast.  I had 1 1/2  of chocolate.  Plus, my family and me are going out to dinner. 

    P.S.  READ MY P.S.S.

    P.S.S. We have a club which is called the Snacking Society.  For snackers only.

    We left Deshaies for the Saintes on Sunday, stopping on the way for a quick snorkel at the Cousteau underwater park, arriving in the Saintes late in the afternoon on Sunday. This is a great spot so we’ll be here for while. It has the town that Lorri and the kids enjoy as well as the water and hiking activities that I enjoy.

    We really enjoyed Deshaies. I think the highlight was the Botanical Garden. We spent a very pleasant day there. We have some great photos of the kids that we’ll be posting shortly.

    Videos, Slideshows and Podcasts by Cincopa Wordpress Plugin

    Compression Plugin created by Tech Forum - Powered by Gucci Sunglasses and dstt ds.